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Thread: Forge Splitters --> how many clicks? do i need to have

  1. #1
    Senior Member Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko's Avatar
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    Forge Splitters --> how many clicks? do i need to have

    Hey i just wanted to ask if anyone knew how many clicks or rotations i need to adjust for on my new forge splitter valves?
    Its going on my audi S4 so I have 2 of them. I wanna try them out as splitters then eventually go to a full recirculating valve when i feel. So if anyone has them or knows how many clicks i should start off with for my S4 that'd be great. All thats done to it is the ECU flash.

    thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member xLilJayx is a jewel in the rough xLilJayx is a jewel in the rough xLilJayx is a jewel in the rough xLilJayx is a jewel in the rough xLilJayx's Avatar
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    i have one on my aba golf... its on hybrid, i have it fully loose, never lose boost under any throttle... and cars not struggling at idle anymore either [used to but i figured out the problem]...
    1998 VW Golf 2.0T ( R.I.P. )
    Dubbin, It's a Life Style

  3. #3
    Senior Member yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer's Avatar
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    How many times do i have to explain that it does not matter how many clicks, the clicks do not change anything on the valve itself, just how much air is diverted versus released...............
    "Nobody screws with Boris Grishenko, Spike them!"

  4. #4
    Senior Member Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yamahammer View Post
    How many times do i have to explain that it does not matter how many clicks, the clicks do not change anything on the valve itself, just how much air is diverted versus released...............
    im reading this off the paper it gives me.

    "Once the valve has been fitted to the vehiclem adjustments of the spring pre load maybe undertaken so as to appropriately tune the valve to the boost output level of the given application onto which it is being installed.Each user will need to adjust their valve so that it will hold boost all the way to the specified redline of their application under wide open throttle without experiencing any valve fluttering at full boost throttle lift. Adjustment of the SPLT-R valve is done by turning the ratcheting adjustment knob located at the top of the valve."

    i wanna see if anyone knows what they tuned it to if they have an S4 or if they know from someone else.

  5. #5
    Moderator soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute
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    is there some scale for boost pressures?
    Foreign Automotive (519)894-9551 | Chopshop.
    Quote Originally Posted by Zuber Speed View Post
    ....back when I was hardcore

  6. #6
    Senior Member Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundwave View Post
    is there some scale for boost pressures?
    no but that'd be sweet if they did cause it would make things much easier

  7. #7
    Senior Member yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer's Avatar
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    ya it does not put more tension on the spring inside it only adjusts how far past the atmospheric release port it will open, it does not add pressure to it so it does not matter. You just have to think about it logically.
    "Nobody screws with Boris Grishenko, Spike them!"

  8. #8
    Senior Member yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer's Avatar
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    Put it at 0 clicks push piston in, then put it at 53 clicks, it will feel exactly the same amount of pressure but it will only move in about half of what it would at 0
    "Nobody screws with Boris Grishenko, Spike them!"

  9. #9
    Senior Member Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko is a jewel in the rough Heiko's Avatar
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    well they're in now. but u cant hear them in hybrid mode because of the damn fans lol theyre to loud. Maybe at redline it'll sound better but at least they work.

  10. #10

    @yammahamar

    @YAMMAHAMAR. You should probably refrain from posting on things you're not positive about, i.e. forge splitter valves. No information is 100% better than wrong information in these forums.

    Your post was not only condescending, it's completely inaccurate. Spring tension ("clicks") absolutely has EVERYTHING to do with controlling boost diversion. I've got one I'm putting in my sons car and held it in my hand. Turned it all the way counter-clockwise and depressed the spring with my pinky finger. Turned it all the way "clockwise" and tried to do the same. BIG difference. Actually hurts to press it in.

    For the rest of you. . . I'm new here, so I came here to get advice on putting this "splitter valve" in. Sorting through the information and misinformation has been daunting. My plan is to start at "16 clicks in" from completely soft on my son's mostly stock 2001 1.8t GTI and go from there. I'll post a followup when I get it dialed in.

    Peace.

  11. #11
    Moderator soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute soundwave has a reputation beyond repute
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    Foreign Automotive (519)894-9551 | Chopshop.
    Quote Originally Posted by Zuber Speed View Post
    ....back when I was hardcore

  12. #12
    Senior Member yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer is a jewel in the rough yamahammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnteFate View Post
    @YAMMAHAMAR. You should probably refrain from posting on things you're not positive about, i.e. forge splitter valves. No information is 100% better than wrong information in these forums.

    Your post was not only condescending, it's completely inaccurate. Spring tension ("clicks") absolutely has EVERYTHING to do with controlling boost diversion. I've got one I'm putting in my sons car and held it in my hand. Turned it all the way counter-clockwise and depressed the spring with my pinky finger. Turned it all the way "clockwise" and tried to do the same. BIG difference. Actually hurts to press it in.

    For the rest of you. . . I'm new here, so I came here to get advice on putting this "splitter valve" in. Sorting through the information and misinformation has been daunting. My plan is to start at "16 clicks in" from completely soft on my son's mostly stock 2001 1.8t GTI and go from there. I'll post a followup when I get it dialed in.

    Peace.
    you spelled my name wrong


    Peace.
    "Nobody screws with Boris Grishenko, Spike them!"

  13. #13
    Follow up on the 2001 GTI 1.8t (stock except for swiss cheese air box, K&N panel filter, cat-back exhaust).
    Install was pretty easy. Make sure you get a couple hose clamps before you start if you have the original VW ones on there. Mine weren't reuseable.
    Started "16 clicks in" or 2 full turns and it seems to work great, i.e. holds boost all the way to redline at WOT and no valve chatter. Like Heiko mentioned above, it's not real noticeable at throttle lift. We removed the engine hood sound deadening material and it made a big difference. Makes a nice "pppsssshhh" sound now. The sound material came off easily and could be put back on for anyone interested.
    As for now, I'm out. If anything changes I'll repost.

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