+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: DIY: Boost Gauge Install

  1. #1
    Moderator Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mississauga
    Posts
    26,410

    DIY: Boost Gauge Install

    DIY of a boost gauge install (42DD Pod and Stewart Warner gauge Kit).

    It took around 2 hours to complete. With some patience, and the right tools it was an easy job.

    DO NOT INSTALL THIS POD WITH SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAGS

    Do it at your own risk. We are not responsible for any damaged caused by using this DIY.

    To get started, you are going to need tools.



    Drill (Optional), wire stripers, crimping tool, duct tape, flat and Phillips screwdriver, Torx socket or bit, heat gun and needle nose pliers.

    You will also need Hardware (provided with KIT with the exception of the body clip and screw and car ).



    Gauge, Pod, tubing, misc. connectors (provided with Kit), wires, body panel clip and screw.

    And lastly an engine that is Turbo Charged. In this case LuiTuga's Jetta 1.8T.



    Part one (Engine)

    Remove Engine Cover using Philips or flat head screw driver (4 in total for top cover)

    Remove lower Engine Cover using the same procedure as above. (3 screws in total)



    Locate vacuum/boost hose at the Fuel Pressure Regulator



    Use needle nose pliers to loosen hose clamp



    Remove hose and pull it out for easy access.

    Cut the hose using the wire cutter.



    Insert the T connector supplied with kit. Make sure that you connect the original hose on both ends of the T, not in the middle.

    TIP: Use Soap on the T connector to make it go in easier



    Re-route hose in original position and connect it to pressure regulator. Squeeze the clamp using the wire cutters.



    TIP: Use heat gun on the tubing to make it easy to insert into T connector.

    Once all hoses are connected it should look like this:



    Route tubing through engine compartment. Make sure that tube is not rubbing or touching any engine parts that can become hot.

    Use the grommet located on the firewall to the right of the brake booster to insert tubing inside the car.



    Install the engine covers back reversing the order that they were taken apart.

    The Engine part of this DIY is complete.

    Inside Car.

    Remove A pillar applying pulling pressure at the top left corner.

    TIP: Make sure that your hands are clean.





    Remove fuse panel lid.

    Remove fuse panel cover pulling on the bottom corner.



    Remove lower kick panel and under dash panels. Use Torx socket.

    Route hose under dash through opening above fuse panel.



    Route hose through the bottom of the A pillar opening



    Fit pod to pillar. Fold over pod edges on pillar. We used duct tape to secure pod to pillar, however there are different ways of doing this, glue is another way.

    The following step is optional. We found it to be easier to drill the A pillar so that the tubing and wiring can be feed through.

    NOTE: Doing it this way will leave two holes on A pillar that will be noticeable if the POD is removed.



    Feed wires for light socket through one of the holes previously drilled.

    If you have a W8 panel, use a three way connector to tap into the dimmer wire. If you do not have a W8 panel tap at dimmer switch (Grey and Blue wire).



    For ground use the body panel clip and screw to secure ground wire to dash metal frame.



    Feed hose through the other drilled hole in A pillar.



    Install A pillar into place.

    NOTE: Use some force to slide A pillar into its place and ensure that all clips are properly secured.



    Screw hose coupling (provided in Kit) into gauge by hand.

    NOTE: The hose coupling provided is plastic and can break if tightened with a wrench.

    Plug hose into boost gauge.

    Plug light socket into boost gauge.

    Start the car and ensure that both light and boost reading is working.



    Place boost gauge into POD pulling back on the hose as its being put into place.

    Install kick panel and under dash panels.

    Install fuse panel cover and lid.

    The Final Product

    Last edited by mosh; 11-15-2006 at 01:03 AM.
    2003 GTi K04 Equipped and APR Tuned | My Flickr |

    I ain't even mad.

    RSLearningServices.ca

  2. #2
    Certified VW/Audi Tech SOOTBOMB is a name known to all SOOTBOMB is a name known to all SOOTBOMB is a name known to all SOOTBOMB is a name known to all SOOTBOMB is a name known to all SOOTBOMB is a name known to all SOOTBOMB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    New Hamburg
    Posts
    8,733
    heres the triple custom pod.
    Dixie whistlin', Coal Burnin', '01 Jetta TDI-3rd WF 14-SOLD
    03 TDI Jetta GLS premium, platinum gray, santa monicas. SOLD...AGAIN '89 pearl white audi 90Q-SOLD
    '01 A6 2.7TQ 6spd-Sold, 03 Yamaha R1, '03 A6 Allroad-SOLD, 2008 A3 2.0T, 2007 dodge 2500 5.9 cummins

  3. #3
    Veteran Member spettaa will become famous soon enough spettaa will become famous soon enough spettaa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    8,115
    closed for cleanliness
    Dubbers are like addicts....we go to weekly meetings
    vwarmy
    Nothing runs like a Deere

  4. #4
    thankss
    it will help me alot to put these in my car
    ERWIN

  5. #5
    New Member 021.8T is on a distinguished road
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    1
    everything i did in this diy was to the exact T, only my gauge reads -1 when running and when i cruise and or push the gas pedal at all it reads 0 constantly. is there something i did wrong?

    only thing is, my gauge is digital so it goes to a boost sensor instead of the gauge itself.
    Last edited by 021.8T; 03-28-2012 at 02:05 AM.

  6. #6
    Moderator Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas has a reputation beyond repute Ricas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mississauga
    Posts
    26,410
    Quote Originally Posted by 021.8T View Post
    only thing is, my gauge is digital so it goes to a boost sensor instead of the gauge itself.
    This is most likely your problem.
    2003 GTi K04 Equipped and APR Tuned | My Flickr |

    I ain't even mad.

    RSLearningServices.ca

+ Reply to Thread

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

     

Similar Threads

  1. Boost Gauge Install DIY- cleanup posts
    By niser17 in forum Interior
    Replies: 48
    Last Post: 05-11-2008, 12:08 PM
  2. FS: autometer boost gauge $20!!!
    By SITN2LOW in forum Automotive Parts
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-26-2007, 03:29 PM
  3. boost tap for boost gauge?
    By Atlantonius in forum General Engine Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-03-2004, 11:12 PM
  4. Boost Gauge Install ??? A little Help
    By 1.8T mikey in forum Interior
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 01-11-2004, 03:39 PM
  5. FS: HKS boost gauge...
    By Tim M in forum Automotive Parts
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-26-2003, 08:47 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts